features 34 ISLAND VIBES AND FLORIDA FLAVOR Keewaydins on Fifth combines elegant coastal dining with a laidback island atmosphere. A couple swaps Christmas trees for palm two-week sail through paradise. CARIBBEAN HOLIDAY 38 48 OFF THE TOURIST TRACK IN SOUTH ASIA quiet visit to southern India and Sri Lanka SPECIAL SECTION SWFL Dine Shop 58 Eat Browse 66 Gear Up Winter Fishing 2 TOTI.COM NOVEMBERDECEMBER 2024 8 PUBLISHERS LETTER 10 GULFCOAST ZEITGEIST Lets Get Together 12 COMMUNITY Revitalized Look at Island History 20 MAKING WAVES 16 Someones in the Kitchen Dinner Show EXPLORER 22 All You Can Do Under One Roof 26 Saving Panthers 28 TRAVEL Pick Paddle 54 BEAUTY Beauty Trends 56 WHATS STORE Whats Hot Southwest Florida 70 TO YOUR HEALTH Medications More 72 CHEERS Drinking Stars 76 RECIPES WE LOVE Cooking SW 78 OUT ABOUT Call of Sea 80 NATURE NOTBEOOK Birdbath Behavior BETWEEN LINES 82 Adventure Alphabet Tree 86 True Crime Variety 87 SERVICES PROFESSIONALS CROSSWORD 88 PARTING SHOT Coming up JanuaryFebruary The JanFeb issue is all about positive things you can do stay active indoors outdoors. Well help find new sports equipment take along look natural wonders which this area famous. There excitement TOTI Media since we will mark 30 years publishing 2025. 4 ers om ffer. t s o l cu lue ecia etB r sp j 7 fo ift f g age p See GROUP PUBLISHER Daniela J. Jaeger CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jason Jones CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Alexis Bailiff PROOFREADER Dan Whicker SENIOR CONSULTING EDITOR Susan Holly CUISINE Gina Birch Beth Luberecki OUTREACH MANAGER Brian Hatley DIGITAL CONTENT CONTRIBUTOR Stephanie ONLINE Francesca Block WRITERS Birch, William R. Cox, Dave Drotleff, Holaway, Luberecki, Myles Mellor, Dr. Randall H. Niehoff, Ann Marie OPhelan, Glenn Ostle, Kevin Rooney, Andrea Stetson, Tracey Tenney PHOTOGRAPHERSARTISTS Bian Jaeger, Reagan Rule , Stetson 239-472-0205 adsalestoti.com OFFICE ADMINISTRATION, SUBSCRIPTIONS CREDIT CARD ORDERS totimedia.comcontactus WEBMASTER Philip Lippard, Sanibel Logic ENGINE Ostrovsky Ryan Frisch, Locable Publisher Network ADVERTISING SALES toti.com totimedia.com timesoftheislands.com rswliving.com gulfmainmagazine.com bonitaesteromagazine.com capecorallivingmagazine.com CONNECT WITH US facebook.comtotimediamagazines twitter.comtotimedia pinterest.comtotimedia instagram.comtotimedia FOR E-MAIL INQUIRIES P.O. Box 1227, Island, FL 33957 T 239-472-0205, F 239-395-2125 Founder Friedrich N. Chairman Guy Tober President C.O.O. Times Islands, RSW LIVING, GULF MAIN, Bonita Estero Cape Coral Living ISSN 1521-1207 are published six times year by Media, Inc., Sanibel, 33957. Subscription price 24.00 one-year domestic subscription. Copyright Inc. rights reserved. No part publication may be reproduced without written permission publisher. Opinions expressed contributors not necessarily those Gratitude Find peace holidays, New Year, future Group Publisher, PHOTO COURTESY OF MEDIA, INC. wind down another year, it feels me like repeat 2022. At that time, my publishers letter our NovemberDecember began Where go from here Two later, same issue, I have write again sorrowed heart. Many you, us, still dealing aftermath Then, got Hurricane Helene, now cleaning after Milton. Time sure flies when nature keeping your toes. was also reminded how fast months while traveling mid-September seeing holiday cookies decorations display already. stores browsed were advertising special pre-holiday offers computers, phones, other electronics. Yes, people already shopping them as well cookies... September. understand hungry offers, big savings, incredible values. However, later attended worship service small village, there an awful lot empty seats. had ask myself What truly consider values life, where does lead us Why electronics sales often excite more than spending time prayer, expressing gratitude, asking blessing We returned October 5, just pack secure what could leave home mandatory hurricane evacuation. Having evacuate traumatizing, but staying alive counts. My prayers out families who lost loved one. As said previous post-hurricane letters, hits. bounce back even seem much hope. grateful really matter, especially great struggle. should strive gratitude every day. During rest tend granted. greatest gifts religious freedom, one highest duties pray nation world. Could allowed shift spiritual material If so, hard get track. praying person me, start God before present Him list wants needs. Doing so change prayer life. And certainly show around us. When last thanked Amazon driver getting packages delivered quickly How telling grocery bagger job they did sorting packing goods Think granted, way express gratitude. would surprised few simple words recognition appreciation give others feelings toward their job. It creating own Trust me--Ive tried it, works. am readers, make entire team feel appreciated. Your support, oftentimes simply subscribing reading family magazines liking social media, means So, let some thanking saying looking forward 2025 celebrating its 30th publishing. Thank first responders continue courage perseverance helping recover. thank team, loyal advertisers, subscribers. Because here. Dear readers friends, spend next holidays end together. May experience during season beyond. Zeitgeist BY DR. RANDALL NIEHOFF human need personal connections Wisdom virtue, wealth power, fulfill deepest need-- genuine communion others. --Glenn Davis, Ph.D., educator, essayist or Americans, between Thanksgiving Years Day considered days highlighted treasured celebrations drawn rich history many ethnic groups. While these observances reveal dazzling diversity content style, thing always common desire participants together happen. In deep made obvious two ways airport terminals crowded increased number passengers arriving, parking lots overflowing cars left. For dont north friends any visitors coming south celebrate, bittersweet mood. someone spent seasons company November December exuberance lights, decorations, gatherings seems colorful busy scene attempt lack connections. Unfortunately, sense disconnectedness growing-- season. Since 2012 interdisciplinary researchers annual document entitled World Happiness Report latest released March U.S. dropped top happiest countries time. both good news bad if over 60, probably earth American senior citizens rank younger generations cannot say same. ages ranked 62nd global happiness. Teen happiness, early 1990s 2010s, suddenly declined 2012. teens reporting felt lonely, left out, useless, joyless abruptly youth inordinate amount using digital media. twice adolescents suffered major depression 2022 2011 nearly increase occurring Covid-19 pandemic 2020. Surgeon General Vivek Murthy has declared teen mental health crisis doubt seductive hold Internet, practical advice bathrooms house occupied been waiting free, switch off Wi-Fi. youngest generations. First, Generation Z Zoomers born 1997 27. This cohort move life onto media platforms--and immediately became loneliest generation record. Next comes Alpha, 2010 1 14. Seth D. Kaplan School Advanced International Studies Johns Hopkins University cites growing numbers suffering crushing loneliness, screen addiction, declining health, rising drug addiction. Social scientists Jonathan Haidt Zach Rausch York assert upstream cause loss community. 200 ago Thomas Jefferson taught happiness aim virtue foundation Recently David Brooks, cultural columnist Times, wisely pointed difference he calls resum virtues skills used accomplish accumulate eulogy appreciated connected 1961 movie Parent Trap came starring Hayley Mills reprised 1998 version Lindsay Lohan. second verse song performed character mind together, yeah, yeah--think share day, everywhere though havent lot, sharin weve got--together. close together--wherever happen be. bond community promise each day come. Ran Niehoff trying 1991. 11 TRACEY TENNEY Wow project proceeds Historical Museum eye-catching educational storyboards installed 15 exhibits historic Baileys Store Creative Arts Unlimited, LLC. Attractive recount Bailey Family important roles Packing Company served pioneers visitors. aT archive video Library featured. Watch first-hand account long-time islander George Wiles tells stories living working mid 1900s. experienced unique journey Village SHMV yet, within past months, visit. Efforts underway oft-delayed revitalize exhibit space nine buildings SHMV, starting 1927 Store. renovation work iconic building completed June. SHMVs 40th anniversary city Sanibels 50th incorporation, unveiled restored These include professionally designed featuring photographs, stories, timelines educate engage pioneer significance Store--the hub island--as lifeline inhabitants importance agriculture, communication methods, fishing, boat transportation conveyed storyboards, tabletop shelf displays, videos, hands-on interactives. interior facelift includes fresh coat paint shelves tabletops, decluttering cleaning, enhanced lighting. upgrades appeal children adults alike. making raise funds, implement eight buildings, upgrade exterior signage throughout village. Nancy Siegel, member board steering committee, recalled projects history. 2018, visionary group members volun- PHOTOS ON ALL PAGES HEATHER CORBIN SANIBEL HISTORICAL MUSEUM Agriculture explains Truck Farming Homesteading enabled thrive barrier island. intent learn appreciate commitment Sanibel. support members, donors, corporate sponsors, historians, volunteers possible project. Even fundraising volunteer necessary pursuing Wows goals. To more, sanibelmuseum.org stop normal operating hours, Tuesday Saturday, a.m. p.m., tour, donate, volunteer. docent Village. She committee chairperson manager Shelves stocked full authentic food, household goods, tools items demand residents visitors, bringing nostalgic memories many. Descriptive signs identify name, relevance, cost store sold teers proposed enhance visitor engagement. Due financial constraints then Covid, launch. 2022, several fundraising, contracted Unlimited CAU kicked project, dubbed Wow. comprehensive design, build, installation firm based Pinellas, Florida, transforms ideas into inspiring destinations. Later however, Ian halted July 2023, received matching grant Department State, relaunched, focusing revitalizing told artifacts. name chosen because thats feeling taking docent-led tour. They impressed strength resilience braved challenges selfguided tours, Transportation preserved helm Algiers Riverboat Mansion 19581979. recounts islanders faced to, precauseway. anchor bell Pinellas Park, -- build 25 years, worked collaboratively designers builders create consistently compelling spaces. Museums, hospitals, libraries, headquarters, retailers benefitted immense professional pride dedication quality practiced daily CAUs artists craftsmen. Its turnkey approach assures dedicated team--from installation, maintenance--and ensures successful product. creativeartsinc.com 14 ANN-MARIE OPHELAN Private Chef McCarthy specializes customized healthy eating plans. private chef gift PRIVATECHEF M aking meal takes effort. Theres shopping, cooking, easiest tasks juggling childcare demands. Instead, stressed-out cooks turning chefs prepare foods satisfy nutritional dietary allows enjoy dishes favorites--all ingredients. pleasantly hiring save money out. customize menus according preferences concerns such food allergies. Some turn lose weight improve health. offer culinary services, prep, cooking classes, catering. According United States Personal Association, 5,000 6,000 country, continues grow. McCarthy, herself Floridas healthiest chef, owner Joyful Wellness, yoga wellness coaching, services. she passion guiding clients Part plans accessible, easy, delicious. certified graduate Nutrition Therapy Institute Colorado. says providing her organic, beautifully presented food-as-medicine meals nourish, revitalize, heal. Her colorful, tasty, nutritious pleasing eyes palate. diets, including Paleo, vegetarian, vegan, low-glycemic, pescatarian, anti-inflammatory, Keto, gluten-free. initial consultation cover concerns, needs, preferences, schedule. provides coaching meals. recipes shared website, Baked Chicken Cherry Rose Sauce, Poached Pears Saffron Gluten-free Morning Sunshine Bread. On PrivateChef menu Plum-hoisin glazed black cod shiitake risotto roasted asparagus, miso broth. Snow crab cocktail mustard aioli. 17 Brittany Lee CEO offering services clients. Asian sesame salad cabbage, cucumber, radish ginger, carrot dressing offering. Artful arrangement McCarthy. 18 TOP BOTTOM BETH MCCARTHY Also PrivateChef, run COO Johan Garces. Whether youre hosting intimate dinner, event, shop, cook, serve coursed dinners week, closely craft exceeds expectations, Lee, Le Cordon Bleu College Culinary Minnesota. perfecting Spanish cuisine enjoys traditional modern twists. PrivateChefs consists local backgrounds ranging rustic, old-world cuisine, molecular gastronomy infusions, nutritionists healthier lifestyle. only gourmet dinners, in-home prep classes. Meal segment, report cook service. Surveys most Americans rather eat dine percent plan homecooked holidays. Considering labor, stress, worry feasts ensure merrier. elevate exquisite, nourishing party impress guests, ease celebration unforgettable, promises catering, meal, plus idea virtual card, perfect occasion, adds Garces, brings fine-dining establishments table. hectic season, trove effort yourself, list. OPhelan resident regular contributor Media. MORE INFO Healthy 719-440-2815 floridahealthychef.com joyfulwellnesswithbeth.com 239-291-4250 swflprivatechef.com Beths popular organic carrot-gingertangerine hummus platter. 19 ANN MARIE grab bite entertained W hether date night, get-together, affair, enjoying dinner beat. time-honored evening theater nearby chow, Belle Theatre option. proud mainstage, Broadway-style productions, musicals plays concerts events--all affordable right executive director Tyler Young says. Thanks size layout, seat view experience. performers, locals passionate performing arts. believe onstage audience, Young. Drinks snacks offered concession, walking distance Five Guys, Firehouse Subs, Captain Hooks Sushi-Pho-Thai, nearby. schedule Elvis 68 Comeback Special Sunday, Charlie Brown Christmas, runs Wednesday, 22. BIG ARTS entertainment varied. Patrons watch three documentaries critically acclaimed, Emmy-nominated filmmaker Andrew Rossi inaugural Fall Film Festival Friday, 15, 16. Opening reception 6pm film, First Monday May, 7pm. Page One, begins 4pm, final offering, Andy Warhol Diaries, starts Repertory selection productions Fort Myers downtown district, choice restaurants. stage Carol Broadway Palm Theatre. Enjoy sound, partake film series, check events long theres something everyone loves REP MIDDLE BROADWAY PALM DINNER THEATRE Those love music attend Community Chorus Concert Band Holiday Performance Thursday, 12, bring beautiful sound voices arrangements. Free Open House scheduled 20, 5 Our shop filled keepsakes artists. little ones picture taken Santa. join sing carols, led Chorus, marketing Meghan Govoni. Light bites refreshments served. Plus, guests gallery live art demonstrations. Afterwards, choices Wickies Lighthouse Restaurant, Traders, Doc Fords Rum Bar Grille, few. Chicago among offerings fall. BELLE Anyone enjoyed knows buffet enticing shows stage. Now 32nd top-quality delicious meals, exceptional customer 170,000 coordinator Jenny Boswell. Main Stage Broadway-caliber musicals, smaller-scale comedies, musical revues, childrens concert series. longest-running history, Chicago, until 9. Carol, Ebenezer Scrooge his infamous phrase, Bah, humbug, 25. bar, specialty salads, entre, desserts included tickets showonly options available. Check website whats show. Childrens Theatre, Elves Shoemaker playing 3 24. child-friendly beforehand, priced each. 27th tradition award-winning drama, Deborah Jonsson. Located Myers, steps away array cafs IF YOU GO restaurants Capones 2708 Santa Barbara Blvd., 135, Coal Fired Pizza Garage. 239-323-5533 thebelletheatre.com across-the-street free 900 Dunlop Road, ticket holders 239-395-0900, bigarts.org hours Upcoming 1380 Colonial 239-278-4422 broadwaypalm.com Agatha Christies Murder Roger Ackroyd, 2268 Bay Street, 239-332-4488 floridarep.org Arcade ArtStage Studio Fully Committed, comedy Becky Mode, January Rent recent Coral. OTHER OPTIONS With Cabaret, 4725 Vincennes Coral, 239-549-3000, capecabaret.com Stage, 9144 Beach Road SE, Springs, 239-405-8566, stagebonita.com Nearby Restaurants Alliance Arts, 10091 McGregor 239-939-2787, artinlee.org Bonita, 10150 239-495-8989, artsbonita.org B Mann, 13350 FSW Parkway, 239-481-4849, bbmannpah.com 21 ANDREA STETSON Multi-activity complexes debut Addison Aguilera, 9, winning rubber ducks 810 Billiards Bowling. ndoor venues typically cold winters north, yet heat, afternoon storms, swarms bugs, weatherproof facilities become too. trend one-activity huge under roof. example, Bowling, opened 28,000-square-foot Miromar Outlets summer, lanes bowling, five billiard tables, Krazy Dart lanes, simulators, four axe-throwing arcade, dining, milkshakes. represents 8-ball pool 10-pin bowling. Similarly, Sports Challenge America, Springs rooms, foosball indoors, pickleball, basketball, corn hole, cup pong, ping-pong, Jenga multi-activity centers hit customers. Tony Sandhu, establishment exceeded expectations. realized makes sense, center. Whenever come there, see having fun. environment better imagined it. grandparents kids bowling milkshake, mother bunch French fries arcade. shakes arcade very mix. Bowling Florida. locations scattered South Carolina, Arizona, Texas, Arkansas, Jersey. Sandhu establish business number-one Abu Dhabi. friendly. growing. chose looked locations. Shannon Foley fun darts sons stood whole atmosphere growth Corkscrew developments outlets traffic I-75, location parking. planets seemed align Estero. Mean Mugs Milkshake Bar, debuted Carolina operates philosophy ice cream no ordinary Instead names reflect personalities Night Owl, Early Bird, Cookie Monster, Optimist, Realist. types cream. mix-ins Fruity Pebbles, banana, cinnamon sugar churro, pancake candied bacon fudge, Oreo, mini cookie crisps. hot brought challenged dart games munched kidfriendly food. here, boys beg different. places outside hot. adults. nice happy hour week. night night. sons, Caleb Stants, 10, Cayden 6, game. different ducks, balloons, tic-tac-toe, classic board. Real thrown, target pop ding sounds success. fun, favorite darts, pool. hang stress golf games, adds. likes munching chicken fingers mac cheese fries. Cynthia Aguilera grandchildren, Addison, Levi, 7, play games. easier win arcades. arms won, Levi concentrated prizes. Anthony Coppolino, Bowlings general manager, facility families. parents darts. Coppolino encourages entertainment. restaurant, sitting eating. nothing restaurant except talk, points too, hooting hollering place town Darts automatic scoring axe throwing. throwing, screens, customers old up. 63 reality Godzilla, Mario Kart, Fast Furious, Coppolino. simulators golf, quarterback football, pitching baseball, soccer, Zombie Dodgeball, disc golf. Each lane alley furnished sofa. comfort relaxed balls giant large displayed indicate weight. popular, everything, Axe throwing popular. 23 activities prizes excel. hole-in-one challenge strike certain frames cash 18. People Wedlock That catch nobody else has. challenges--that kind, notes Shawn Veerasammy, vice president manager. pickleball quite played outside. courts lights cooler. drink cool off, again, public parks that. America rents hour, court 50 basketball 55 simulator bay 75 meeting room. Participation requires additional entry fees. young families, nights, birthday parties, events, teambuilding activities, Wedlock. 105. oneof-a-kind location, Veerasammy sporting ages. He Employee Sue tries hand America. model home, going franchise state. writing newspapers 1995. North Naples. 10801 239-766-8448 810bowling.comestero-fl 28120 Race Track 239-663-1810 sportschallengeamerica.com Grayson Felke, soccer game Springs. Every activity rented vary depending Hourly prices range 10-15 30-45 40 people. center aso get-togethers, team-building activities. leagues Bingo DJ. four-acre, 10,400-square-foot bills itself innovative rooms particularly employee Customers book choose sports-- lacrosse, rugby, hockey, Dodgeball. sport scenes players compete match Egypt England courses country. Guests order room play. Tom Sandi Felke recently Brennan, 13, Grayson, 7. wanted heat. So try Felke. actually liked booked hour. great. variety. done rugby. sports, Brennan says, hitting far. Dodgeball pretty good. kid tenders 24 Male panther, captured Panther National Wildlife Refuge Habitat preservation helps ifty ago, perhaps panthers estimate ranges 120 wild, longer brink extinction. mean, danger. Although panther recovery efforts, do, Shindle, Fish Service USFWS biologist panther. current status listed endangered. reside upland forests, wetlands, grasslands, require den. Their diet feral hogs, deer, armadillos, raccoons. 35 miles short hunting spurts. Males, LEFT PANTHER NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE RIGHT WILLIAM FREUND, FSTOP FOUNDATION weigh 160 pounds, square range. Females, 100 miles. biggest habitat. form agricultural conversion urbanization associated continually increasing population primary threat long-term persistence population, statewide Shindle. preserve habitat FPNWR, located heart Big Cypress Basin. FPNWR authorized 1985, authority Act 1956 Endangered Species 1973. Based recommendations 1981 Fakahatchee Strand Environmental Assessment refuge acquired benefit endangered Mark Danaher, supervisory wildlife refuges. core territory, habitats corridors protected perpetually. purchase 24,300 acres Collier 1989 stride Danaher. An 2,300 added 1996. acreage proved valuable quest Radio telemetry studies conducted documented extensive use panthers, smaller male average size, serves critical connection Preserve, Picayune State Forest, Preserve areas adjacent properties. Additionally, fencing I-75 29 funnel crossings highways, animals travel safely across landscape vehicles, connectedunfragmented areas, dispersal capability. maintain native species controls nuisance survival everyones best interest. Immokalee 239-657-8001 fws.govrefugeflorida-panther 27 LUBERECKI Great Calusa Blueway marks paddlers explore waterways Y oure intimately familiar roadways, whether driving regions islands views routine. might grasp walking, biking, hiking trails paved pathways area. But paddled kayak, canoe, standup paddleboard, missing Luckily, in. paddling trail novice expert water scenic bays, rivers, tributaries. prettiest immersive parts accessible everyone, Mike Hammond, County Parks Recreation. paddle everyone. elderly, grandparents, kids, needs--theres spot everybody. beauty Launch points, outfitters, guides found Blueway. opportunities folks abilities. LEE COUNTY PARKS RECREATION VISITOR CONVENTION BUREAU Make trail. marked travels almost County, Imperial River near line, San Carlos Pine Sound Matlacha Pass, Caloosahatchee tributaries, Gasparilla Harbor Charlotte Aquatic Preserve. bottom line see. named called Calusa, lived Spaniards arrived region. Spots Blueway, Mound Key Archaeological Park Randell Research Center, connects immerses nature, think amazing enjoy, Hammond. Paddling outfitter timers visitfortmyers.com calusablueway established outfitters track record, outfitter. doing environmental education managing Paddlers download app maps information. information available Connie Langmann, owneroperator GAEA Guides, involved inception helped inch Guides wide set tours custom experiences paddlers. waters incredible, that, Langmann. fantastic place, ins outs. doesnt want too details Come involve observing bird rookery inhabited wood storks, roseate spoonbills, egrets, herons, species. thousands birds, Theyre nesting February September, roost year. Another birding Bunche Myers. beaches mudflat, birders world observe birds. gorgeous morning, sunset amazing. Joe Perry, co-owner Carmens Kayaks Bokeelia, fan Jug Creek. absolutely state, Going east mouth Creek spots fishing Traversing mangrove tunnels bucket lists, newbies kayakers Hammond recommends Tarpon Island. rent manatees Sunset watching birds land tunnel marked. mazes guidance handy. guide, being guide wherever go. hasnt inspired explore, heres extra motivation. 20th celebration, earn rewards Download passport, 31 launches known existed game, Im hearing checking points. Nokomis, freelance writer whos frequent Learn bethluberecki.com. definitely beaten path. 16499 Porto Bello Bokeelia 239-333-7332 carmenskayaks.net 239-694-5513 gaeaguides.com leegov.comparksblueway 32 JASON BOECKMANCOURTESY lists kayak restaurants, parks, Then receive exclusive merchandise hats buffs. completes least entered 11-foot Body Glove iSUP Performer paddleboard two-night Lodge seek portion stretches Bay. From Left Right Classic Mimosa, Millionaires Coffee, Strawberry-Basil Hair Dog Bloody Mary, Pineapple-Coconut Mimosa Lychee Mimosa. Aves Must-do Dining Experience KEVIN ROONEY REAGAN RULE hen offer, lists. Avenue list, visiting Keewaydin Marco destination. two, giving diners taste laid-back ambience prestigious Naples avenue. decor reminiscent five-star allinclusive resort, tantalizes buds, leaving craving more. agree reviews, first-hand. Ideally situated Sugden Plaza, nightly grabbing reopened Theater. embraces tropical flavor inspiration results vibrant flavors incorporate sweet ingredients plantains, fruit, coconut. Chef-inspired seafood favorites ceviche salad, coconut shrimp, oysters, grouper sandwich. captures vibe essence complete twist lime pie creamy custard topped toasted Italian meringue graham cracker crumbles. Other creative cant-miss La Tierrita, consisting layers decadent chocolate mousse crumble berry compote vanilla Chantilly. Reservations recommended lunch calling 239-262-5787 12pm 8pm online keewaydins.com. Top Seafood Pasta Shrimp, Clams, Mussels, Olive Oil Garlic Sauce Linguini. Middle Fried Shrimp n Chips Lime Coconut Signature Cocktail. Bottom Outside open air bar. Clockwise Pan Seared Black Grouper Oscar Lump Crab. Oysters Camp Lulu Inside Room 37 TRAVELING LESSER ANTILLES Caribbean paradise GLENN OSTLE plane low landing Maho below. Moments touched St. MaartenSt. Martin, point trip grandkids plans, partner, Pam, elected warm, friendly eastern Caribbean. taxi ride cruise terminal took well-heeled island, 1648 Netherlands France percent. easy why tourists, considering white sand beaches, tons yachts eye-popping bays. aboard Wind Surf, Windstar line. 535 feet length capacity 342 210 international staff, Surf worlds largest sailing ship. power ship able unfurl 27,000 Dacron sails masts, sailed Shell Barthelemy, affectionately referred Barts. author Surf. turtle rises breath snorkels Tortola. 39 secluded bays Virgin Gorda. 14-day Tortola, Gorda, Anguilla, Antigua Barbuda, Kitts, Nevis, Dominica, Lucia, Guadeloupe. LITTLE HISTORY late 1400s 1500s, European nations actively competing colonies Sailing Spain, Christopher Columbus voyages Americas credited discovering Islands 1493, fourth-century martyr Ursula holy virgins. individual encountered. Over explorers numerous laid claim various advantage treasures. wars resulted changing ownership. 18th century Lucia changed hands neutral territory dozen times. Sun rays filter Nevis. rainbow shines port Martin Today heady mix cultures centuries peoples descendants slaves, pirates, stepped ashore. Snorkeling beneath rocky cliffs tour Anguilla shaped bow Guadeloupe harbor photographer doctor. morning awoke anchored docked slave trade pursued abolished 1800s. modern-day sobering stand markets humans bought sold. snorkel trip, Tortola exploring clear blue water. Legend Blackbeard pirate Norman Robert Louis Stevensons Treasure Typically, crew somehow managed elaborate barbecue lunches beaches. RISE SHINE Sopers Hole usually coffee rolls or, breakfast deck. offshore, orange tender boats ferry islands. sophisticated British Islands. divers, 41 evenings luxury on-board dining. dressed dinner. waited table, efficient crew, mostly employees Philippines Indonesia representing nationalities, hustled forth supplying hundreds variety GOING ASHORE prearranged gave overview visited carry home. upon sighting thought fat, sleeping woman gorda meaning fat English, explored famous baths, granite boulders lie beach forming series plunge pools hidden grottos climb over, under, around. whose derived Nuestra Senora de las Nieves, Lady Snow, referring clouds encircle dormant volcano, discovered oldest birthplace Alexander Hamilton, founding fathers Secretary Treasury. addition, 1780s Lord Nelson, Britains admiral, base operations. decided car drive side blowholes shoot Atlantic impressive limestone rock arch Devils Bridge found. sovereign states woman, signed catamaran twin peaks Pitons Soufrire, UNESCO Heritage Site. learned behind treat, tourment damour, prepared fishermens wives husbands extended periods sea. cloudy Site Gorda 42 Barthelemy airport, runway, judged dangerous airports Barts, captain announced counted 47 mega-yachts thus reputation getaway jet set. Twice Barts known, developed gathering keeps regulations preventing mass tourism. hotels, casinos, fast-food chains allowed. 1,400-foot runway accommodate aircraft third drew offshore stern open-air bar Compass Rose. Kitts twinkled distance, casting soft glow Peter John De Kock, ships engagement thrilled tenor voice operatic songs one-man concert. all, cruise. Miko Rica ready beverage warm smile bistro attractions, accompanying article page 44. 43 Secrets pirates pastries long-lost treasure Baths tourists 44 authors Pam Hadfield, looks sunlight filters Titou Gorge, created ancient lava flows cascading waters, Dominica. raw stunning vistas. equally fascinating backstories legends below surface islands, uplifting heartwarming, chilling sad. Here deserve mention. BATHS BOULDERS lies mysterious geological wonder Baths, batholiths, igneous rocks formed earths crust pushed millions years. slabs Gordas pristine blocks abandoned toddler. cavernous labyrinth shallow scene. places, wooden dangling ropes way. Cathedral vertical tall triangular-shaped cavern overhead gaps. wonder, legend traders sheltered THESE HUGE GRANITE SLABS ARE SCATTERED ALONG VIRGIN GORDAS PRISTINE BEACH LIKE BUILDING BLOCKS ABANDONED GIANT TODDLER. 45 NO ONE KNOWS EXACTLY HOW MANY PEOPLE DIED THIS PLACE WHERE EMBODIES SUCH AN UGLY SECRET. wash slaves put sale markets. Despite dark past, photographed BURIED TREASURE Dominica remains lush, inaccessible. Rugged roads upwards thick sections rainforest translated hole. enter cold-water stream swim narrow gorge towering rocks, light overhanging vegetation. picturesque waterfall appears underwater. Adventurous closely. filmed Pirates movies. fitting 1567 fleet carrying million pesos, today worth 150,000, wrecked coast. never recovered caves natives. overunder photo sandy sculpted incoming waves tides. BRIDGE FREEDOM enslaved lives crossing themselves turbulent Barbuda coastline shrouded mystery Ocean meet clash waves, arch. formation broken centuries, resembles bridge, which, legend, crossed deliberately jump churning drown escape horrors slavery. hoped spirits and, landmass west coast Africa, powerful currents bodies homes reborn freedom. exactly died embodies ugly secret. believed devil claiming souls, Bridge. 46 small, charming Catholic church Notre Dame lAssomption honor patron saint Terre-de-Haut CHARMING Les Saintes stands lAssomption, Terre-de-Haut. built 19th commemorate victory invaders 1666. front welcomes weathered baroque stone facade. tower contains bells, 1820 2006. Christmastime draped silks, seasonal artwork, ornate decorations. welcoming couldnt resist peek inside. peaceful spot, August inside decorated PASTRY setting pastry created. holds tranquil Terre-deHaut, fishermans wife, tormented absence, imbued love, treat cheer him exhausting darker claims husband returning, wife grew despondent matter correct, torment dish Saintes, composed multiple crusty covered layer coconut, guava, exotic jam, finally sponge cake. Tourment damour folk demonstrations celebrations. feast contest held decide damour. honoring Assumption. Like Guadeloupe, stories. Happy exploring. Ostle contributing articles photos publications Charlotte, dive photograph. His appeared recognized internationally covers magazines. featherandfins.smugmug.com. Off Tourist Asia By WHEN MOST THINK TOURING INDIA envision so-called Golden Triangle Delhi, Jaipur, Agra. Taj Mahal, Seven Wonders attracts Few travelers India. traveled June, saw tourist. rare American, fact, running family. son married Kochi wifes live. Southern mecca temples, palaces, gardens, sites far apart, spread cities, train places. impossible foreigners ignored cows, goats, monkeys, tuk-tuks type auto rickshaw. destination sites. Train adventure itself. trains pull station, crammed hanging doors, sleeper section sets bunk beds clean sheets, blankets, pillow. Traveling overnight go, sleep next. Mysore temple mountain. devout wait long, hot, winding Palace highlight elaborate, columns archways, decorative floors, Gothic architecture. expansive grounds temples gates, cows elephant sanctuary highlights trip. 60 orphaned injured elephants there. roam freely. dam botanical gardens Bangalore, viewing government museum showcases centuries. Bangalore Kochi, gold saris, Chinese-style nets, rode tuk-tuk, synagogue temple. lighthouse herd beach. meandered backwaters Vembanad Lake houseboat. Along banks shipping ports. grow industry, luring manufacturing China needs goods. new, brightly colored cranes ports contrast tiny two-person fishermen. Back shore wedding reception, wearing saris shimmering shararas. ate Indian careful non-spicy versions. mile vacation, Trivandrum, Arabian Sea, white. riverTOTI.COM 49 palace lavish pillars ceilings. golden gigantic shape elephant. river locals, selling coconuts items, floating washing clothes bathing cows. Trivandrum Hindus, carvings heading palace. structure museum, palaces ceilings, mirrors, intricate designs. five-hour Madurai. Visitors cant anything main Madurai, cell phone--which photos. photograph exteriors complex carved painted pastel colors. statues symbols, meaning. ceiling walk side. Madurai Thirumalai Nayak Palace. 17th-century Workers gathered cement bowl mixer, placed heavy head walked courtyard ground. Watching labor-intensive process large, rooms. Most towns seen stop, Mahabalipuram, enough warrant stay. Arjunas Penance, Descent Ganges, massive monolithic sculpture examples art. Angkor Wat Cambodia. Krishnas Butter Ball defy gravity, perched slope rolling downhill. family, son, California Nearby, Rathas once dirt, visible. decades restored. Shore Temple overlooking Bengal. Tiger Cave, cave, king relax entertained. workers uncovering fixing ruin 2004 tsunami Ocean. Mahabalipuram temples. climbed lighthouse, watched cricket, swan Asias swimming Kanchipuram Ekambareswarar acres. monk, 3,500-year-old mango tree temple, beside pillars. Kailasanathar sandstone lions stone. Vaikunta Perumal walls depict elaborately painted. magnificent Basilica Chennai houses tomb apostle Thomas. car, route lined interesting crocodile big, habitats. Signs English describe reptile. Dakshinachitra, replicas villages, homes, workplaces communities. After reaching went Basilica, located. apostle, Vatican City Galicia, 52 AD later. second-longest urban Marina Beach, kilometers boats, shade shelters workers, plethora vendors. contrasts. stately colonial-style erected vendors streets sidewalks. visited, Kapaleeshwarar. intricately bright two-lane slow tuk-tuks, occasional cow, elephants. chickens middle courtyard. cow started ran directions chase eventually market threading flowers fruit. pleasant aroma colors crowds captivating street sidewalks preparing wrapped banana leaves. humongous housed colonial buildings. carvings, statues, zoology, marine shells, coins, artwork. fashioned, conditioning. Lanka, vastly Vendors shops, streets. Drivers lanes. Tuk-tuks colors, yellow meandering toilet paper, didnt touring. separated Gulf Mannar Palk Strait. dates 3,000 evidence prehistoric settlements 125,000 Buddhist writings BC. geographic harbors strategic Silk Maritime Road. rule Ceylon. 51 staircase 1,200 leads ruins 200-meterhigh surrounded network fresco paintings cave. capital King Kashyapa 477-495 180 meters high rock. top. reward spectacular countryside palace, queen sat Halfway enormous lion. spiral cave paintings. Sigiriya planning. Just road, Dambulla Royal Cave spacious designs, dozens Buddhas room--some lying down, standing, sitting. gained independence 1948 adopted plenty monkeys scurried outside, includcurrent 1972. country attracted tourism ing babies clinging mothers. 26-year civil war, ended 2009. Colombo Kandy, conveniences, States. Pinnawala Elephant attracOrphanage, caring 65 tions area, unlike cities visited. Once sanctuary, cobblestone road city, river, attraction another. bathing. feed them. toured tea factory Kandy influenced Portuguese, Dutch, sipped samples British. structures harvested made. Buddhist, Hindu, Islamic, Indian, conour favorite. temporary architectural styles. Ear, Independence Square, monBuddhas ear kept worshipped. Hunument countrys independence. dreds file lay headed Gangaramaya Wild everywhere. table ear, musicians monk yarn Surrounded hills, bracelets. kings Lanka. artifacts museum-like Sites pieces cameras, typewriters, telephones. hill Maha Bodhi Viharaya, part, corner, sticks Buddha looms peaceful. monks trainNearby Viharamahadevi coloing robes shaved heads. nial-era hall statue Down valley Botanical Gardens Peradeniya fountains. bamboo ever seen. Lotus Tower centerpiece everything grasses orchids sculptures, roaming panoramic city. lotus flower design bats trees. changes color minute, drove skyline. caves, Buddhas. 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