features 58 TAKE A WALK THROUGH OLD FLORIDA Area parks and preserves provide a path back in time to more pristine serene Florida. 62 LOUISIANA HAVEN The primordial swampy ecosystem of the Bayou State is prime territory for abundant wildlife, including one largest wading-bird rookeries alligator population North America. SPECIAL SECTION Escape Shop 68 Recharge on Riviera Maya 71 Peddle, Paddle, Cast, Kick 2 TOTI.COM JANUARYFEBRUARY 2024 departments 10 8 PUBLISHERS LETTER ZEITGEIST Lets Keep Learning ON THE RADAR 12 Inspiring Next Generation Upstanders COASTAL COMMERCE 14 Sports Bars Are Bomb 16 WHATS IN STORE Whats Hot Southwest Florida MAKING WAVES 18 Baseball Apple Pie 20 Fantastic Festivals Farmers Markets COMMUNITY 24 Keeping Looking Good 28 FISH Keeps Pace with Demand TO YOUR HEALTH 32 Positive Aging 34 BEAUTY Beauty Trends EXPLORER 36 Kicking Back Key West OUTDOORS 39 Mighty Myakka Park TRAVEL 42 Sense Ancient Crete FOR KIDS 46 Wild About Animals 76 OUT ABOUT 48 Journey Around Pine Island Sound NATURE NOTEBOOK 49 Photographing Butterflies STAY TUNED 50 Grand Season Store CHEERS Dessert Glass 80 RECIPES WE LOVE Cooking SW BETWEEN LINES 82 Adventure Alphabet Tree 86 Touring Sanibel Brady Cat 87 SERVICES AND PROFESSIONALS CROSSWORD 88 PARTING SHOT ers om ffer. t s o l cu lue ecia etB r sp j 7 fo ift f g age p See Coming up MarchApril 4 Whether its gulf, river, or lake, being near water always magical. In our issue, well bring you all things water-related will explore few resorts that are radar something special. GROUP PUBLISHER Daniela J. Jaeger CREATIVE DIRECTOR Jason Jones CONTRIBUTING DESIGNER Alexis Bailiff PROOFREADER Dan Whicker SENIOR CONSULTING EDITOR Susan Holly CUISINE Gina Birch Beth Luberecki OUTREACH MANAGER Brian Hatley DIGITAL CONTENT CONTRIBUTOR Stephanie ONLINE Francesca Block WRITERS Birch, William R. Cox, Dave Drotleff, Kara Griffith, Holaway, Luberecki, Myles Mellor, Dr. Randall H. Niehoff, Ann Marie OPhelan, Glenn Ostle, Andrea Stetson, Suarez, Diane York PHOTOGRAPHERSARTISTS Kris Fehlandt, Jim Brace Hemmelgarn, Jaeger, Michael LaJaune, Jerry Smith, 239-472-0205 adsalestoti.com OFFICE ADMINISTRATION, SUBSCRIPTIONS CREDIT CARD ORDERS totimedia.comcontactus WEBMASTER Philip Lippard, Logic ENGINE Ostrovsky Ryan Frisch, Locable Publisher Network ADVERTISING SALES toti.com totimedia.com timesoftheislands.com rswliving.com gulfmainmagazine.com bonitaesteromagazine.com capecorallivingmagazine.com CONNECT WITH US facebook.comtotimediamagazines twitter.comtotimedia pinterest.comtotimedia instagram.comtotimedia E-MAIL INQUIRIES P.O. Box 1227, Island, FL 33957 T 239-472-0205, F 239-395-2125 Founder Friedrich N. Chairman Guy Tober President C.O.O. Times Islands, RSW LIVING, GULF MAIN, Bonita Estero Cape Coral Living ISSN 1521-1207 published six times year by TOTI Media, Inc., Sanibel, 33957. Subscription price 24.00 one-year domestic subscription. Copyright Inc. All rights reserved. No part this publication may be reproduced without written permission publisher. Opinions expressed contributors not necessarily those Like Light Through Cracks Tranquility has way finding fter holiday decorations lights gone, there days when rooms your house do seem as warm bright they were December. additional can create such feeling tranquility. Maybe relate this. During holidays, turn off overhead big lamps just take glow colored mini-lights, candles, lighted crche, Hanukkah Christmas tree. resulting glitter warmth set peaceful scene. I hope able enjoy moments during festive days. For me, walking alone into lit decorated room provided tranquil escape. reflected blessings life how could them my family friends. Just important, though, closed eyes tried think about anything--just listening sound silence. come while bathed light, but it also appear light coming through cracks life. am reminded Leonard Cohens Anthem where he writes Ring bells still ring. Forget perfect offering. There crack, crack everything. Thats gets in. When we pause focus using see, what might learn tranquility It sense peace quiet--calmness serenity. have sitting under starry sky, crickets. soft sunrise dimming sunset. calmness world, completely carefree. Have felt lately here tell find if let it. You want make New Years resolution 2024. last publishers letter, mentioned husband had made priority fall visit each members Europe. challenged readers plans their own allows, well. If do, believe seek relationships-- from immediate, intimate relationships extended family, friends, colleagues. As consider new ahead decision go full steam know whatever brings way, shine life, me wherever doing. would wish same you. raise virtual glass toast 2024, appreciation you, dear supporters, anticipation great ahead. Be well, friends Group Publisher, Media Zeitgeist BY DR. RANDALL NIEHOFF Entering Year baby steps Infants practice called beginners creed dont fail, youll fail learn. --Tom Vanderbilt, Beginners Joy Transformative Power Lifelong physical skill good mentally emotionally. example, instrumental reaffirming ones personal identity wake loss job, limb, passing loved one. Therapeutic grief work takes place YMCA swimming lesson, volunteer choir, food-bank kitchen, mangrove-planting project, Habitat Humanity house-build, painting class. Wherever setting be, getting feet author Tom Vanderbilt puts meeting people who like-minded desire things, willingness foolish. Psychologists describe mindset openness experience increasingly linked longevity length healthspan health. n illustrations commonly depicted toddler top hat learning walk meanwhile, old shown graying geezer bent over worn-out body. truth never too become beginner, step start again. recall adage Never prisoner past. was sentence. Folks down Floridas Gulf Coast tested worked hard recover devasting hurricanes. witnessed many tired bodies broken tools yet lessons learned, widespread youthful eagerness fresh at rebuilding positive perspective, harness energy emotions experimental behavior, acquire before--it difficult first walk. Neuroscience experiments demonstrated human brain any develop functions older adults on, faster mental processing speed episodic memory becomes like younger adults. We grown-ups lot get around infants years. To trait, better word than foolish childish, because taking recognize wisdom work. Zen Buddhist monk Shunryu Suzuki perspective mind reveals lack preconceptions learn--not stop keep trying, again average 19 months travels eight football fields hour, 2,400 steps. Along lot, 30 tumbles per hour thats failure rate catastrophic. Why choose failing They relentlessly curious, crawling slow. week crash-filled stumbling several weeks crawling. Plus, frees hands, allows viewing, provides ways socialize, helps gain control environment sounds goals adult choose. These successful learned learn--a style energized exploration, flexible enough adapt situations, characterized accept plentiful errors. Karen Adolph, psychologist directing research Infant Action Lab University, summarizes four babies stepping future 1. skills 2. Change routines drills--they explore. 3. Progress often linear kids perform worse before better. 4. Push against edge progress toddlers best operating limits current level. Some say approaching standing entrance tunnel dark unknown. Peering inside hopes dawn after darkness, an admits really rise shine. caffeinate best. Nearby wobbly boldly opening empowered different Instead waiting end tunnel, Ran Niehoff entering his 32nd living year. 11 SUSAN SUAREZ Naples Holocaust Museum looks IF YOU GO Cohen Education Center Open year-round, Tuesdays Sundays. Student field trips group tours available appointment. 975 Imperial Golf Course Blvd., 239-263-9200 hmcec.org PHOTOS COURTESY OF HOLOCAUST MUSEUM COHEN EDUCATION CENTER years, community inspire thousands students public act bigotry hatred. museums mission teach action bigotry, hatred, violence. educating next generation dangers hate, why must upstanders--those willing speak behalf someone targeted hate--instead bystanders, ignoring happening. By acting kindness empathy, others, impact communities now future. rooted unique local origin story--inspired late 1990s middle school classroom project Holocaust. seventh-grade went beyond historical facts. sought out eyewitnesses lived community. these survivors shared moving stories, powerful lesson hate bigotry. vowed forget happened promised share rest lives. Their motto forget--tell children children. At young age, realized responsibility power upstander. Today astonished see beyond. Since opened 2001, reached 500,000 programs, exhibits, events. doors, museum visitors, states 45 countries, immersed history education programs offered five counties. addition in-class trips, custom pop-up displays schools organizations. Boxcar Exhibit, loan philanthropists F. E. Jack Nortman Foundation, traveled across schools, libraries, other locations, sharing information history. award-winning recently completed major sixmonth expansion. north wing added 3,600 square galleries classroommeeting space, bringing total size 9,600 feet. existing updated expanded. After completing 3,600-square-foot expansion, held grand reopening day November. expansion space exhibits depth important topics. Personal stories told actual artifacts survivors, interactive displays, oral testimonies. makes alive, showing hatred lead perhaps inspiring stand prejudice. Today, educational outreach ever. Suarez been president CEO since 2017. She nonprofit working organizations received B.A. Stanford University M.B.A. Santa Clara Leavey School Business, holds CFRE Certified Fundraising Executive designation. ANN MARIE OPHELAN Watching favorite teams crowd much fun W Duffys Grill 33 locations state, three With vintage atmosphere TVs throughout restaurant, Fords Garage popular watching sporting TOP BOTTOM LEFT DUFFYS SPORTS GRILL RIGHT FORDS GARAGE ant watch soccer game buddies Or PGA tournament colleagues even Super Bowl Theres no catch excitement sports bar offers strategically placed flatscreen televisions, food, relaxed filled fans. plenty bars from. One known Grill, Coral, Estero, Fort Myers. family-owned -operated restaurant chain Florida, Miami Palm Beach Port St. Lucie, Orlando, Tampa, Coast. Each location wall-to-wall flat screens viewing live games, menus featuring jumbo wings, certified Angus beef burgers, ribs. Football fans love diving gridiron nachos, potato skins, Touchdown Tots. two-for-one drinks--all day, every day--its easy so popular. free loyalty MVP program. MVPs immediately earn rewards toward food drinks. Another Garage, which country, Taking name Henry Ford, whose winter home less mile restaurants original downtown Myers, pays tribute Americas iconic automobile brand. reminiscent 1920s service station dcor cars, old-time fixtures, gas pumps, servers dressed mechanic uniforms. Model hovers above bar, wind wings. lovers appreciate only nostalgic setting, menu favorites, burgers 100 percent black beef--also vegetarian bison options--and served aged cheeses, toppings, sauces artisan buns branded logo. Other favorites include meatloaf, chicken tenders, pulled pork macaroni cheese, onion rings, selection craft beers, brewed Motorworks Green Bench Sunshine City. aficionados indulge lime pie. MotorClub, discounts, freebies, more. Signature Burger topped sharp cheddar, applewood smoked bacon, bourbon barbecue sauce, lettuce, tomato, red brioche bun Bowl--and, fan knows, LVIII Paradise, Nevada, Allegiant Stadium Sunday, February kick-off 630 pm. January events Australian Open, 15-28 Melbourne, Australia Winter Youth Olympics, 19-February 1 Gangwon, South Korea X Games, 26-28 Aspen, Colorado World Aquatics Championships, 2-18 Doha, Qatar Six Nations Rugby, 2-March UK, France, Ireland, Italy Table Tennis 16-25 Busan, Korea. Choose competition then head preferred games. OPhelan resident regular contributor Media. 627 Parkway W., 239-205-6771 21253 Stoneybrook 239-301-0944 13721 S. Tamiami Trail, Myers 239-590-8631 duffysmvp.com 1719 Parkway, 239-540-3673 10801 Corkscrew Road, 239-495-3673 2207 First Street, 239-332-3673 fordsgarageusa.com PHOTO 15 GINA BIRCH OUTDOOR BLANKIE Comfortable versatile, Little Unicorn outdoor childrens blankets sizes stylish prints. 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Made PUR-Cell urethane foam, enlarges sweet spot, absorbs vibrations, maintains weight distribution exceptional balance. comes colors. 139.99 pikkl.com 17 spring training B aseball marking calendars games Minnesota Twins Hammond Lee County Complex Boston Red Sox JetBlue Fenway South. Both Grapefruit League, consisting Major League training. Spring natural fit call home. Fans activities options stadiums, area, ensure fun-filled action-packed vacation, says Pamela Johnson, deputy director, Visitor Convention Bureau. play 23 Golden Gophers subject change. ballparks gives chance interact players teams, personally, Matt Hodson, director communications Twins. stars prepare season seeing top, prospects shine--all sun, welcome treat us Minnesotans. begin season. baseball cheer below BOTH PAGES LEE COUNTY VISITOR CONVENTION BUREAU training, another ballfield. truly second home, defending American Central Division champion cant wait 34th Complex, adds Hodson. He team loves engaging fans, training--from workouts final game--sets stage success And, All-Stars Carlos Correa, Byron Buxton, Pablo Lpez alongside budding superstars Royce Lewis Jhoan Duran, very Baseball, 1901, played 123 seasons won championships pennants. know, daily experiences Stadium, ballfield, fathers daughters, mothers sons, grandparents grandchildren hang out, spend together, eat ballpark some laughs ballgame. stitches baseball, sport uniter--connecting generations joy evening ballpark, wonderful rule changes implemented 2023 pitch clock, ban infield shifts, larger bases, itself faster, action-packed, exciting adds. easily accessible Early camp, select open workouts. Once begin, affordable seating options, traditional stadium seats bleachers lawn areas kicking blanket additionally, ballpark. Food drink plentiful, various ticket deals promo days, information, online community, Twinkie Town, twinkietown.com. Over South, Northeastern Huskies stadium, built image Boston. Monster, nickname tall left-field wall, includes manually operated scoreboard, replica 1934 Bostons Park. However, park within wall. Dont saying... apple So, trip ballfield complete slice Here readymade pastries Crumb Market Restaurant 2736 Edison Avenue, 239-334-1687 farmersmarketrestaurant.com Dutch Jerrys Foods 1700 Periwinkle Way, 239-472-9300 jerrysofsanibel.com Caramel Perkins Locations perkinsrestaurants.com Publix publix.com close superstar shortstop Correa. similarities Triangle, walls form triangle center field, Peskys Pole, pole right-field foul line, lone seat, located honoring longest run ever hit-- Ted Williams June 9, 1946. Park, 2012, replaced City Palms seasons, nine world Monster overthemonster.com, information. On 25, split squads first, Atlanta Braves CoolToday smiles Correa Stadium. later, Jet Blue headed game, dog, peanuts. ends March. Find springtrainingconnection.comflorida.html. Southwet 11500 Drive, Ticket Information 239-226-4700 mlb.comredsoxspringtrainingballpark 14100 Mile Cypress 1-800-33-TWINS mlb.comtwinsspringtrainingballpark Replaced photo caption goes BRACE HEMMELGARNMINNESOTA TWINS Moss Marina 450 Harbor Court, Wednesdays, 9 am-1 pm November April. farmers markets managed Local Productions year-round 10901 Saturdays Surfside 2354 Collier FSW 7505 Lely Naples, Sundays pm, April 15. Saturdays, south Mid-Cape Sundays, am-2 Mercola Caf. Roots Markets--from Captiva Lakes beyond--are normal spot Hall spending temporary parking damage Hurricane Ian. market runs Sunday October May. markets, buylocallee.com. weather, event opportunities outside, mingle, deals, fun. Square, September 2023. market, Estero-based Productions, everything expect 40 vendors offer produce, honey, stamped jewelry, meats, world-class seafood, bagels, bakeries, iced coffee, juices, barbecue, Chicago dogs, guacamole, salsas, plants, hummus Mediterranean fare, beach gear, resort wear, yoga handmade items, Linda Miller, manager Productions. Fridays Until further notice, door Countys Lynn Memorial Check Parks Recreation website updates leegov.comparks. Santini 7205 Blvd. Thursdays, Springs National Art consist weekend January, February, Riverside Springs. 22 FORT MYERS BEACH MARKET AT TIMES SQUARE BONITA SPRINGS NATIONAL ART FESTIVALS Square returned season, offering foods, arts crafts Friday. Ken Burgener Jean Baer ringing cow bell. annual Festival Place County. CLOCKWISE CAPE CORAL FESTIVAL SANIBEL ISLAND FARMERS KRIS FEHLANDT Alliance Arts hosts monthly Night Wednesday month 5 pm8 looking crafts, number art festivals. 39th Annual Place, hosted Rotary Club 13-14, am- Located heart renowned long highlight cultural calendar. festival array artwork 300 artists artisans, entertainment, food. goers immersion art, culture, spirit. mark calendar events, 10-11, March 2-3 am-5 festivals feature 200 national international artists. rated among fine-art United States. Last least, Light, festival, garden car shows truck wars 5K run. Highlights Junior Parade, showcasing talents hundreds families, 11, 230 430 two-hour Parade night parades around, 17. celebrates accomplishments Thomas Edison, resident. Light. 10450 Reynolds 239-495-8989 artcenterbonita.orgartfest capecoralartfestival.com capecoralfarmersmarket.com 239-334-2999 edisonfestival.org buylocallee.com 800 Dunlop 239-691-9249 httpswww.facebook.comSanibelfarmersmarket 41markets.com Volunteers collect trash Beautiful. Recycling, cleanup initiatives difference L Participating fundraisers residents help litter-free. KEEP BEAUTIFUL ee making massive efforts recycle possible. recycled 72 2.7 million tons waste generated county 2022, according Department Environmental Protection. material 2022 158 70 high material. consistently remains 67 counties recycling. Recycling host benefits reducing amount sent landfills, conserving resources, preventing pollution, greenhouse gases, reduce raw materials. savings, increasing jobs recycling industry, supporting manufacturing. points Protection Agency EPA, lists reduce, reuse, items trash, buying holidays year, once decorations, lights, tinsel, stands removed, trees wreaths yard waste. Beautiful KLCB, affiliate America engages volunteers 350 improvement improve environmental health beauty places special Tisha Bayne. Ian, KLCB 3,500 dedicated 7,820 hours removing 97,000 pounds hurricane litter debris regions most environmentally sensitive areas. Now slowly process, planted 105 shrubs sea oats effort reestablish tree canopy vegetation Additionally, organizer Ocean Conservancys International Coastal Cleanup ICC, took 16, use data Clean Swell app track item collected. cleaning beaches waterways, ICC contribute worlds database marine logging Data 318 used scientists, environmentalists, governments, others understand characterize global plastic pollution problem Here, locally, common cigarette butts, bottles, caps, Events 5th July Cleanup, Great 30, 21, Monofilament Madness involvement, KLCBs Bowling Fundraiser Go Tournament 18. following Facebook Instagram accounts stay current. Our picking litter. awareness littering. Ideally, pickup issue lives, explains meet Plaza Beach. goods, reusing repurposing products, Doug Whitehead, solid County, tips. ask program recyclables cart paper, metal cans, cardboard, containers, glass. Whitehead asks avoid placing bin appropriate loose, clean, dry. countys list leegov.comsolidwasterecyclingyes. Also, please dispose batteries cart. Household alkaline batteries, AA, AAA, C, D, nine-volt, garbage, Whitehead. types, nickel-cadmium lithium-ion found cordless phones, rechargeable drills, should taken household chemical facility Topaz Court contamination wish-cycling--when unfounded recycled--can costly mistake program, 25 INFO EPA Reducing Reusing Benefits epa.govrecyclereducing-andreusing-basicsbenefits Paper products prepared Resource Recovery Facility. 239-334-3488 klcb.org Solid Waste 239-533-8000 leegov.com solidwaste Annex 6441 Conservancy App oceanconservancy.org trash-free-seasinternationalcoastal-cleanupcleanswell facilitates scenario acknowledge existence instead Getting realize simple fact OK pick disposal discouraging littering, she says. Indeed, person cannot solve pervasive everyone care her property cleaner, faster. Anyone littering helping neighborhood joining Bayne, recommends downloading app. mobile map record collected Plastics sorted bundled 26 GOVERNMENT MAGGIE GOLDSMITH Clockwise left happy pantry shopper Maryanne Edelman delivers Merari Salinas, manager, accepts donations. tirelessly support aftermath Ian continued change shape past SanibelCaptiva continues support. long-term recovery services, representing pillars island-based education, social senior hands. Known neighbors organization islands, sees firsthand rising prices coupled disaster expenses affecting unexpected, unbudgeted remediation repair costs, along lost livelihoods, concerned Ians landfall. experiencing hardship healthcare costs prescription medication stretch limited resources. Pantry vital workers, changed slightly pace. shelf-stable hygiene soon refrigerated perishable hand. providing fruits vegetables users. distributed 259,270 need. backpack healthy, child-friendly meals, lives Captiva. 4,041 youth backpacks. Post quickly reestablished Meals-byFISH islanders needing nourishment meal. meals doubled size, mainly Covid crisis. Now, hot, nutritious week, extras weekend, critical resource grocery stores remain closed. Meals, Foods, protein, starch, vegetable, anyone currently SANIBEL-CAPTIVA Meals-by-FISH subsidized, charges self-paying individuals, delivery volunteers. case-by-case basis, subsidize entire cost meal, depending situation. Also basket. livelihoods financial emotional strain approaches. baskets Easter, Thanksgiving, island workforce. together funds, donate assemble families celebrate particularly reasons--the hurricane, prices, supply short- ages. Providing assistance struggle however, determined move forward. committed walk-in hope. Maggie Goldsmith, marketing grants, 29 BETH LUBERECKI institute FGCU shines spotlight 60-plus S outhwest retirement hub, folks golf, tennis, fishing boating. And true 560,000 ages 60 Lee, Charlotte, Collier, Glades, Hendry counties, story area. Older deal issues general population, P. Felke, MSW, Ph.D., associate dean academics professor Marieb College Health FGCUs Felke Shady Rest Institute light. Michelle Tortora, occupational therapy faculty member brought dogs Baker Senior small pilot animal-assisted interventions conducted Institute. Human Services University. overshadowed stereotypes exist Florida... beautiful kind picture painted. knows theres picture. came GIS geographic system mapping study needs uncovering insecurity, poverty, BAKER NAPLES FELKE SHADY REST INSTITUTE POSITIVE AGING isolation. helped establishment sites Gate. spearheading executive FGCU. established entity formed funds sale former low-income seniors That builds previous contribution 4.1 foundation scholarships obtaining degrees nursing, work, therapy, physician assistant studies. Despite obvious large specifically affect Felke. main workforce development, engagement, translational research, policy advocacy. plays role residents. considers order connections between university hes doing groups, sessions, meetings large. Happy participants weekly session 31 Many feel forgotten population. --Thomas intervention visits proved animalrelated services. idea seen difficulty accessing population--those weve jump right away. Jaclynn Faffer, presidentCEO 2012 study. relationship grow expected activities, services dementia respite, cognitive care, caregiver support, geriatric counseling case management. already intersection, Faffer. Were forward having centers energy, expertise, resources effectiveness have. center, seniors. Faffer PAWS Assistance Dogs veterans considering adding center. David Klein, board Lifetime Healthcare Companies Excellus BlueCross BlueShield, excited region. live, trying place, invited question programming, jumped opportunity. Klein experts respective agencies involved creation institutes Care Partner Program, micro-credentialing management practices, agencies, systems, entities. assess clients coordinate required continue Most nursing it, hard. goal Felkes connecting providers heard groups access there, reason, theyre penetration see. questions talk issues, touch us. topics related aging. region thing negative disease de facto outcome Research outlook aging, actually add Aging, fgcu. edumariebcollegeaging. Nokomis, based freelance writer whos frequent Learn bethluberecki.com. lipstick face-cream fanatic Then youre place. Every give lowdown fabulous fragrances, luxurious lotions, makeup, between. 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Pick stash bag Ulta ulta. com Woods Shopping 239-766-4107 Coralwood 239-458-3522 vacation.inc. Naked Hydrating Glow invisible, spray-on option reapplying Ingredients hyaluronic acid, watermelon extract, botanical extracts hydration leave glowing protected harmful rays. us.nakedsundays.com. Explorer ride powered comfy, Express catamarans 3.5 hours. KEY WEST EXPRESS K ey southernmost point States mere 90 miles Cuba. remarkable blend music, arts, history, beauty, colorful, exciting, inspiring, relaxing reflective time. put bucket havent return already. journey line Keys, land, sea, air. least Youll likely I-75 heavy traffic, portion is, until reach Overseas Highway, enchanting keys--including Largo, Islamorada, Marathon--and crosses bridges lay West. views spectacular. Scheduled airline Airport. windows outer decks, dolphins soaring seagulls boat docks Bight Ferry Terminal. private boat, marinas, handle nautical miles. An alternative Express, operates jet-powered approximately relax, drink, expansive view Mexico way. boats big, comfy seats, air conditioning, bigscreen TVs, Beach, seasonally Marco Island. round-trip one-way tickets available. arrived West, excursion begins. Sightseeing famous Conch Tour Train, tour landmarks, interest. museums, Shipwreck Ernest Hemingway House, 1930s. Butterfly Nature Conservatory free-flying butterflies birds glass-domed habitat. Mallory nightly street performers, exhibitors, carts. Sunsets ritual, spots incredible western Zachary 37 sky. Taylor Truman Waterfront offshore deep-sea fishing, charters Foodies delight haven choices, French German Italian. Duval Street rocks, Caroline Goode, Georgia. signature dessert, Rum libation rum cake. overnight excursion--from inns bed breakfasts. kick vast photos memorable souvenirs, sunset catamaran. 1200 Main Grinnell 951 Bald Eagle 239-463-5733 keywestexpress.net lively restaurants, galleries, shops. Southernmost marked buoy Snorkeling pastime abundance underwater ecosystem. 38 MIGHTY MYAKKA oldest ncompassing 37,000 acres, River impressive. breathtakingly lakes, wetlands, prairies, hammocks, pinelands, pice rsistance River, flows park. Visitors guided tram Canopy Walkway birds-eye paddling waterways canoes kayaks soak cycling exercise. officials promoting bike. pedal seven paved roads shady grassy marshes, shore Upper Lake, Brooke Keck Protections District Office. Bicycles permitted backcountry dirt Road Trail Carlton Reserve, Sarasota border hard-packed, sandy, muddy, dug feral hogs. Three campgrounds bicycle Mossy Hammock, Bee Oak Grove. Camp permits required. rent single, tandem, bicycles Outpost. Helmets recommended cyclists. law requires helmets cyclists under. Hiking biking maps ranger station. encourage bicycling volunteerism. example Bike Good, identify remove invasive plants involves educational, recreational opportunity, Keck. combines exercise, camaraderie. So far, removed 2.4 acres picnic campsites, hiking trails. Those prefer hike 38.9-mile loop maintained Association. Backcountry crisscross trail, hikers shorten lengthen upon preference, STATE PARKS Prairies, lakes Canoers kayakers centerpiece majestic state park, state-designated wild scenic river. expanse pinelands. river shallow attract numerous wetland creatures, canoeing, kayaking, wildlife tilapia, bass, catfish, types fish. Kayaks observe alligators, otters, bobcats aboard flat-bottomed boats. Boat 45-60 minutes. designated horse rules regulations riding. winter, birding activity visitors. species migrate colder months. Birdwatchers herons, egrets, ducks, ibises, cormorants, anhingas, osprey, especially Birdwalk, flood plain. beloved pink-feathered roseate spoonbills sometimes spotted. trails Boylston Ranch House Loop, Bobcat Crossing Loop. Binoculars idea. Remember water, bug spray, wear sturdy shoes, hat, sun protection heading out. sunset, 365 Admission 6 vehicle 2-8 people. admission, pedestrians bus fees. visitor helpful 13208 72, 941-361-6511 floridastateparks. orgindex.phpparks-and-trails myakka-river-state-park lush appreciated biking. 41 DIANE YORK Greek M ost swim clear Aegean bathe sunlight beaches. But islands. gigantic rock formations gorges climbing exhilarating drives, Venetian forts ports, tiny medieval mountain villages. seafood ocean, cuisine, potent Cretan liqueurs. Black-robed monks chant halls 13th-century monasteries. Ruins palaces prehistory explored. Following visited ancient island. RETHYMNO Step 16th century city Rethymno thrived trading. architecture wrought iron balconies, windows, mosques, giving Middle Eastern feel. town huge Four Martyrs Church, surrounded maze short streets alleyways shops sell silver gold clothing, mastika, liqueur. waterfront buildings housed fleet stand, nearby fort naval full-scale trading galley. Full-scale reproduction vessel caves Matala lighthouse port lemon-glazed grilled beet walnut salad. open-air tavernas authentic melt-in-your-mouth kleftiko lamb mizithra tastes melted mozzarella mushroom baked parchment sack. My barley rusks sliced bread creamy feta, salmon, greens. SPILI break heat, village Spili treasured heavily treed, location. Fontana Dei Leoni, lion-head fountains. spew locals straight fountain. shaded verandas, taverns arbors, stores. met Janet Jackson, proprietor shop Delfina, fabrics, moved Dublin, because, says, people, climate, KRITSA villages mountains Crete. Kritsa fairytale. Gorge, upward, lined white houses pastel-painted wood trim doors. Wisteria orange trumpet vines sides buildings. Grandmas yayas market. locally cafe shelterd beneath arbor greens streetside Spili. 43 Above, Arkadi Monastery religious icon painted tin monastery statue soldier war Turkish occupation. Right pottery Knossos palace. stuffed eggplant, lemon chicken, beetroot Ask directions hidden Vrissi formations, cave, ocean water. ARKADI MONASTERY clothing jewelry Raki moonshine. waiter gave gratis shot Raki. PALACE KNOSSOS Built 2000 BC, palace source mythology. King Minos ruled here. architect Daedalus kings son, monstrous minotaur roamed labyrinth searching victims. Icarus fateful flight wings feathers wax. fine murals bulls, dancers, flowers. literally treasures excavated site, Heraklion Archaeological nearby. Knossos, rises giant barren landscape. founded 13th century, construction Spanish cathedrals. Because residence, visitors allowed grounds church artworks, monastic cells, cellar, sells olive oil, exquisite tin, produced monks. Turks 1866, 1,000 men, women, refuge Rather suffer hands Turks, gathered cellar detonated gunpowder killing themselves. that, symbol independence. While longer monastery, hear singing hymns chanting, Gouverneto Chania. Chora Sfakion CHORA SFAKION postcard vivid blue stark stacked hillside. bougainvillea balconies rooftops. views. covered marketplace excellent delicious 44 OLIVE TREES groves Greece. trees--thick, gnarled, twisted--are verified 1,400 tended Christ. eerie walked groves. BEACHES course, Elounda Bay quiet lovely, sandy Irish British Kalamaki south, Libyan nice wide, enclave tourists. drive away Matala, splendid cliffs investigate. enjoyed, Greece Don Doris Lakey Madison Heights, Virginia, asked landscape, horizons, welcoming fantastic, answered Don. Crete, experienced ancient, go. avid gardener splits Richmond, Her articles health, lifestyle, periodicals central Virginia. book Aint Babe Womans Guide Surviving Infidelity Divorce. captivity nature, amazing feed giraffes, expedition cruise islands primates reside, additions zoo--a critically endangered Bornean orangutans named Deedee, RanDee, Dira, Riplee. thrilled Zoo conserve orangutans, zoo Mulvena. conservation initiatives, importance protecting animals habitats. Nearly pathways allow stroll reside zoos historic tropical 1919. department camps, experiThe ences. Guided welcomed cafs RanDee on-premises. Tickets purchased napleszoo.org. Ding Darling Wildlife Refuge fount birdlife, 245 bird observed there. Educa- Biking J.N. Drive. hen giraffe reaches lettuce childs hand turtle tips water--its magical youngest audiences outstanding ones. Truly, visiting refuge, compassion. witness close. Wonder Gardens Springs, rescued, rehabilitated, non-releasable animals, flamingos, golden pheasants, sulcata tortoises. wander encounter lorikeet pavilion koi pond. opportunity via markers. Popular Parrots Parasols, rescued parrots macaws, Gator Pond juvenile alligators. otters Otter Grotto. Animal encounters up-close experience. animal gardens enter enclosures them, retail Sarah Williamson. booked advance. purchase wondergardens.org. Caribbean HAPPENING DING DARLING IMAG HISTORY SCIENCE Upcoming Wellness Nature, 18-21, in-person lectures wellness mindfulness Daydreaming Niki Butchers Hand-painted Photography 25. appearances Pulitzer Prize-winning novelist, essayist, poet Barbara Kingsolver journalist novelist Carl Hiaasen 29. Community Sanibel. WILDLIFE SOCIETY-FRIENDS REFUGE ZOO. tion Center, brochures, hands-on Store, impressive, lavatories. jaunt Boardwalk, hit scat identifies droppings tracks, Toni Westland, supervisory ranger. spring, nests two-story deck, varying lengths canoe launches. four-mile Drive walkers, bikers, drivers, drive. outdoors bike climb observation tower feeding, Westland. Low tide visit. Walkers bikers Bailey Tract, interior wetlands island, freshwater prevail. recent Tract 0.3-mile Self-guided Mindfulness Trail. Roost, site solar eclipse Watch reopen. Lab, lizards, frogs, snakes, creatures. History Science Cranford Ave., 239-243-0043 theimag.org 239-472-1100 fws.govrefugejn_ding_darling 1590 Goodlette-Frank 239-315-7626 napleszoo.org 27180 Old 239-992-2591 wondergardens.org WONDER GARDENS Gardens. Fridays, federal holidays. recreation, kayak rentals, Tarpon Explorers licensed provider tarponbayexplorers.com. quality tanks, aquariums, lab. presents show ambassador. meet-the-keeper segment guests Christian Gould, aquarist. tank installed 2023, stingrays, horseshoe crabs, flounder, starfish, aquatic inhabitants. Sea-to-See Touch Tank, saltwater aquariums display, 3,200-gallon aquarium Planet TV Tanked, predator tank, others. ambassadors alligators tortoises turtles, frogs toads, salamanders, grasshoppers. Live twice educate exotic wildlife. Outside, Fisheye Lagoon migrating residents, Japanese koi, bluegill, turtles. Children science exhibits. nurtures inspiration intellectual curiosity, discovery, fun, Gould. cart.theimag.org. 47 CAPT. BRIAN HOLAWAY Cayo Costa, Cabbage Useppa--a matters, end. --Ernest Capt. Holaway Master Naturalist shelling ecotour guide 1995. His Sound, Costa Key, tep aboard, sit down, lets Sound. depart McCarthys Roosevelt Channel Teddy Roosevelt, stayed houseboat east visited. idle channel, studio political cartoonist Jay Norwood aka Darling. quarters 1940s, later owned artist Robert Rauschenberg. idling farther along, slide sandbars, north. weather calm approach Redfish Pass, created 1921 half. given separated section Pass Mexico, follow coastline midsection primarily northern tip 400 homes. 4.5-mile-long didnt arrive early 1980s. remote paradise, plane, definitely beaten venture Farther north, separating Costa. 2,500 13 ecosystems. barrier eight-and-a-half seashells. Of shells 167 documented lies Register Historic Places. dates 500 BC. cottages date count greeted smile cold beverage Key. Useppa five-minute directly east. Darlings marina Useppa, transports listed Places, and, Historical Society, occupied humans 10,000 eastern 1900s then-owner Barron Collier. Midway everyones banyan. Inn, dock pathway royal palms. Leaving eight-mile trek Captiva--but fish side originally Punta Gorda Fish Company ice shipped privately serve reminder rich heritage Channel. sign bow starboard bow, almost thankful WILLIAM COX document identification biodiversity trends tragic butterfly abundance. 700 U.S. 160 breed state. Land resulted significant habitat Association NABA encourages monitor populations. tool endeavor. changing value butterflies, shifting paradigm collectors nets butterfliers binoculars, cameras, backyard gardens, website. monitoring, gardening, conservation, naba.org. generally distances photograph nature. Field rewarding spy fritillary dramatically striped zebra longwing butterfly. enhance planting maintaining garden. eggs, development young, nectar feeding. scouting photograph, wildflowers, magnets beautiful, graceful insects. Look skies meadows, roadsides ditches wildflowers produce pollen nectar. mid-morning sunny temperatures increase production attracts butterflies. subjects, photographing easiest observed. Your knowledge particular confirm observations experts. camera digital 35mm single-lens reflex model. exchange lenses, autofocusing capability, ISO adjustment, aperture settings, automatic shutter associated priority. zoom lens focal 300mm, tripod, electronic release. 25mm extension tube closer, hood helpful, facing sun. reflector flash shadows backlit Selecting starting 1125 usually yield images. equipment hand, slowly. up, quietly adjusting framing. photographs patches empty represented out-of-focus washes color. telephoto strong colors composition. gratifying, patience image. Cox professional nature photographer ecologist 35 Visit him williamrcoxphotography.com. KARA GRIFFITH Sidney Berne Davis begins Steinway concert dreams piano stage, realm possibility-- budget. Sometimes logistics magnificent instruments reach. SBDAC Baldwin benefactor deteriorated time, did performances. blood, sweat, tears, reputations performers stage. Under leadership grown stately surroundings Griffith initiated oversaw years-long restoration state-of-the-art venue visual performing arts. doors 2008. Juilliard graduate native Floridian, 1988 fulfill Pianist Andrew Armstrong, performed SBDAC, selecting piano. unveil JERRY SMITH shocked embarrassed instrument reputation music --Jim performance dreamed concerts, talent, performances highest Griffiths vision inspired building, raising restore rehabilitate structure. Davis, husband, Sidney, Menswear donors, husbands thus, born. concerts began completed. restrooms yet, rented porta potties outside recalls. violinist performs Metropolitan Opera going gown. embarrassed, apologized inside. assured believed doing, indeed bless talent. presented evolved genres, remained consistent present best, Griffith. jazz, bluegrass, chamber audience talented Atrium Often, comfortable bantering concert, space. Too often, video screen them. amongst musicians. finest blessed Stradivari, Guarneri, 300-year-old Italian creating glorious acoustically Atrium. needed. Packing loading eventful Washington DC needed seized pianists playable, funding challenge, deteriorate. Large scratches dents marred surface gaffer tape hide resigned compromise 2020, pianist Virtuosi concerts. Armstrong driving airport downtown, started condition playing, performer, caliber, relates tales venues, acoustics, of, accommodations, management, response OTHER JIM 51 dramatic, technically demanding, instantly recognizable ivory keys suddenly popped keyboard, flew air, landed floor audience. musicians match. launched Keys 2021 fundraising campaign Sons Concert D naming key each. hit. donors wanted sponsor specific note, C flat, member. reach, 2022. Downtown inundated waters deep, began. focused paused soliciting donations realigned recover. canceled reinvented emergency distri- bution Donations materials, country. probably Within months, alive reopening. resumed programming. sales strong, sold resuming capital pleaded cause concert. resumed, 200,000, brand-new option, search condition, personality, personality match venue. familiar acoustics knew was. Attempting tow 52 Ds available, showed considerable use. distributors sound, enough. good, for. Cinderella until, finally, saw D.C. looked promising. serendipitously test pianos owner, amateur pianist, selling recital paces. finally owner discovered pristine, filling room. play. demanding pieces, admired sounded responded styles. Using superior technique muster, capabilities. Everything asked, handle, sound. 30-minute audition, declared, buy piano, will. Though elusive asking funds. gap calls. Fortunately, scheduled inform money purchase. pointed flaws urged 53 unharmed SBDAC. donation. plea, Gershwins Rhapsody flaw, section, Stoically, kept skipping beat, staring floor. Finally, and--embracing humor irony--yelled, rewarded well-deserved ovation. mishap--not staged--Griffith phone calls pledging approached longtime supporter, well-known leader, who, hesitation, yes request, discovered, properly safely now-depleted resourceful do-it-yourselfer, decided, himself. hired movers load unload onto trailer, tow. familys faithful 2008 Toyota Sequoia. got wrapping securing Wasting somewhere purchase, explosion engine exited highway. coasted sunshade station, pouring hood. locals, mechanic, diagnosed blown radiator. fixed quickly, towed minutes temperature gauge re-erupted, exit cover morning. trailer restless hotel door. inspected gasket waits unwrapped destination 54 Professional assembling underway tuning. require resuscitate Virginia repair. Instead, unhooked Sequoia nearest dealership. dealerships highway traded truck. hours, worried mightily expensive hed exit. resurfaced paperwork, sped precious cargo undisturbed. Sierra Sequoia, generous attendant hooked incident. Almost stopped train tracks Murder Mystery Dinner Train pass by. railroad-crossing flashing, pushed turned restarted, transmission barely engage. Forced coast house, exhausted, parked driveway. borrowed journey. shop, dealer installed, since. survived ordeal, staff dubbed Gertrude Steinway. Gert debut Ehnes Quartet friend, Armstrong. teaching job 1988, taught violin students. Elementary 1991 orchestras. married proponents growth direct Music. earned degree Indiana 2301 239-333-1933 sbdac.com 56 LOCAL TRAILS HIKERS BACK TIME ANDREA STETSON Trish Schranck leads Walk Side Black Lovers Mary Netti walks greyhound, Macey, trail Koreshan Estero. Macey routes narrow greenery beach. settlement. void crowds rarely person. asphalt, Greyhounds asphalt. Netti, flavor. feels pretty shaded, bamboo, street. loop, mile, Koreshan, wants cuts. trails--Eagle Trail--total shorter cutoffs, 2.6 cutoffs. explains. gotten older, trail. bottom shade. wouldnt winds maritime hammock transitions hard-packed sand sugar-sand shortcuts shortcut severely damaged route gopher tortoise munching grows manatee. coastal strand habitats, beaches, Katie Moses. burrows, tortoises, overlook canals possibly glimpse manatees, dolphins, 59 Hikers hills 1960s land preparation glad post-Hurricane. downed limbs trees, cleared, exploring, Moses notes. thriving. flooded storm surge bounced back, does. ranger-guided October, paths 14-plus 1.5-hour paths, Agave cactus developer, Floyd Luckey, planned amazed 1960s. mostly gumbo limbos, grape cabbage palms, vegetation. everything, Cindy Reilly, Tim. relatively informative. shade, Tim Reilly Jackie Joe Logan Koreshans meander Monkey Puzzle settlement parallels River. 0.44-mile meanders bamboo forest, towering oak palms ending playground connects halfway loops 0.64 together. coastal, upland, scrub, hardwood. Pam Morton, bamboo-lined couple special, accessible. real matter lots commune treasure developed. manicured all. look. spread. Barefoot Preserve 505 239-252-4000 collierparks.comcollier_park barefoot-beach-preserve 4940 Broadway 239-992-0311 floridastateparks.orgparks-andtrailsestero-bay-preserve-state-park 3800 floridastateparks.orgparks-andtrailskoreshan-state-park 8700 239-707-6328 floridastateparks.orgLovers-Key agree gorgeous, native, Morton entrances Winkler Avenue uplands Preserve, one-mile Wiggins Pass. reopen Stetson writing magazines newspapers Naples. sheltered 61 GLENN OSTLE Louisiana Haven ME OH MY OH... BAYOU flock egrets flies bald cypress Louisianas 9,300-acre Preserve. elcome Swamp read drove Breaux Bridge, Louisiana, wonder exactly ourselves into. bayous swamps Louisiana. surprisingly, was, Hope eaten gator swamp dangerous creepy scary wildlife--snakes, fascinating forms Cajun 12-hour Carolina, 1829 antique shops, cafs, friendly Bridge crawfish openly displayed touffe created. 63 became farming cooking 1959 legislature officially honor festival. breakfast, Maison Madeleine, Creole cottage 1840s, lovingly restored Madeleine Cenac. Listed antique-filled rooms, porches, staircase suites. thrives climate swampland green heron eye potential Walt Adams, regularly charming rustic delighting welcome, Cajun-based meals. arranged friend Gardner, cinematographer Manning, BBC, Geographic, Discovery, Disney. afternoon gear Dougs 9,300acre supports Lake Martin preserve, 765 permanently cypress-tupelo swamp. filters moss hanging branches bayou. 64 lush, to. wades bayou front Inset Adams Cenac egret flight, disturbed 65 travelers somehow slipped primitive Riding silence swampland, admiring centuries-old colorful bowl-like bases frilly curtains moss. preserve Conservancy, ecologically rookery ibis, spoonbills. accustomed skittish stalked drew mornings flocks leaving resting areas, evenings night. stood starkly thick moss-covered trees. presence numbers prehistoric reptiles. spotting, lazily eyes, noses, ridges backs visible. specimens sunning themselves atop fallen logs distinctive Top anhinga stump. Below demonstrates NOT alligator. 66 bulls slapping heads stake territory. foot-long gators scurried shore, camouflaged sad leisurely pace, accents comfort wealth paraphrase lyrics Hank Williamss song, Jambalaya... Son gun, Ostle publications partner, Hadfield, photography featherandfins.smugmug.com. barred owl launches branch tree, either pursue prey chase intruders greeting 1264 Prairie Martinville, Lousiana 337-342-2475 nature.orgen-us get-involvedhow-to-help places-we-protectcypressisland 1015 John D. Hebert 337-332-4555 maisonmadeleine.com DEPARTMENT Special NAME XXXXXXXXXXX HEADLINE GOES HERE FAIRMONT MAYAKOBA iam,makes peribus, tam occhuit, notem AIgnatimod refresh Fairmont Mayakoba andeto ponlos, utem ini co cis efac facioraes se et inte tereste appealing escape Yucatn Peninsula butler casita suite Mayakoba, sliding leading balcony. 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Among Farrell, write illustrate starring Brady. drawings ideas prototype stored counter to-do store contents destroyed. mention Tom, ask, honestly thought forever. reappeared midst stack publisher catalogs file. Charles LeBuff, publishing company, printed. Books. lighthouse, Bay. alligator, dolphin, manatee, tortoise, doesnt now, adventures possible soon, Rebecca. capture Bradys low-key lounges bookstore, jaunts introduction children, worthy bookshelf. come, accompanying mazes, connect-the-dots images, coloring pages, scavenger hunt, Book Fun. storm, temporarily relocated Bell Tower family. plan meantime, book. 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COVER Pie, page Cover HemmelgarnMinnesota LIVING REGIONAL SOUTHWEST FLORIDAS LIFESTYLE MAGAZINE VOLUME JANFEB VOL. NO. 4.95 FANTASTIC SEASON EVENTS BATTER Published Display RUNS IT